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I flushed my brake system in August in preparation for a DE event with ATE Super Blue. Everything went fine, no issues at the track. Now I'm getting ready for another event, possibly giving the brakes more of a work out (at the Glen) and I'd like to just bleed the brakes before I go as I don't think flushing is needed.
When I flushed the brakes I opened a new can, poured 3/4 into my power bleeder and then resealed the can of Super Blue.
The big question is, I still have plenty of Super Blue left in the can but I've been told once its exposed to the air, its absorbed some moisture and you shouldn't use it. Since I'm only bleeding I wouldn't be adding much more fluid to the system.
Am I ok or should I open a fresh can? I understand the real purist wouldn't use a powerbleeder but I have to do this alone and it works great.
Since the can was sealed it is OK. The fluid could have only absorbed as much water that was in the air in the can when sealed. By the way Super Blue is no different than the Gold stock fluid that you added it to from Porsche. The difference is just the color.
By the way Super Blue is no different than the Gold stock fluid that you added it to from Porsche. The difference is just the color.
Hold on here, are you telling me that ATE Super Blue is the same as the Porsche OEM brake fluid? No better ???
I do like to swap between ATE Super Blue and ATE Amber so I know when I have all the old fluid out but I was under the impression it was also better than the stock fluid. I've seen posts here by guys that track a lot and use Super Blue.
Is this a misconception on our part? Guess I should look at the specs and compare.
Hold on here, are you telling me that ATE Super Blue is the same as the Porsche OEM brake fluid? No better ???
I do like to swap between ATE Super Blue and ATE Amber so I know when I have all the old fluid out but I was under the impression it was also better than the stock fluid. I've seen posts here by guys that track a lot and use Super Blue.
Is this a misconception on our part? Guess I should look at the specs and compare.
Take a look at the Type 200 and the Super Blue fluid on the ATE web site. They both have the same boiling points. The Type 200 is Porsche's standard along with many other German manufactures. You could make Super Red if you like just add red color to the Type 200 Gold. Food coloring works OK with it or blue to make more Super Blue.
Motul RBF 600 is a better choice and doesn't stain everything blue.
If you experience a chronically soft pedal (hard use at Sebring, etc) use Castrol SRF.
__________________ Craig 425-765-1090, www.Rennstore.com --assistance & discussion for your pad selection welcomed PAGID brake pads - Daytona winners in every podium position E-mail for any questions: Rennstore@Comcast.net
I found this chart at one of the racing supply companies. It gives you a pretty good idea of the differences in the various brake fluids. Looks like the Motul RBF 600, while much better then the ATE Super Blue is very close in cost.
The OEM fluid is apparently manufactured by Pentosin. The specification of the OEM fluid matches that of the "Pentosin Super DOT 4 Plus" product that can be read here: Deutsche Pentosin-Werke GmbH
Either of these products can be sourced through multiple outlets.
I have been running the Pentosin Racing for about 10 months, through multiple heat soaked events (see 3rd radiator thread), without any apparent fading.
[quote=Craig@Rennstore.com;184786]Guys - Don't use ATE. [quote]
Why not? I, like most DE & SCCA drivers I know, have used ATE 200/Blue for years without any problems. I've had fading/melting pads, but never fluid issues. Confined to select high speed, high braking tracks, maybe you're correct. That I don't know, but I disagree with your generality.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayman
I found this chart at one of the racing supply companies. It gives you a pretty good idea of the differences in the various brake fluids. Looks like the Motul RBF 600, while much better then the ATE Super Blue is very close in cost.
Close in price?
From the linked site: Motul RBF 600 = $56/liter ATE 200/Blue = $11/liter
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krokodil
The OEM fluid is apparently manufactured by Pentosin.
That has been my understanding. Apart from the oem Pentosin's lower specs compared to ATE 200/Blue, the factory or dealer fill is from drums of unknown age and moisture (air) exposure. That's one of the reasons I flush my own brakes or have supplied my own fluid the few times I've had it done by others.
SPLPCA, your right about the price. I took a quick glance and saw $14.99, I didn't realize it was for a half liter which makes it $30 per liter compared to $11 for the Super Blue. I see you come up with a price of $56/liter. Is my math wrong, isn't 500ml x 2 = 1 liter which would make it $14.99 per 500ml or $30/liter?
I'll be giving the Super Blue a good work out at Watkins Glen in a few weeks and I'll make a decision on whether or not to step to the Motul 600.
I have one more event after that at LRP before the CS gets put away for the Winter and I'm thinking it will be time for new pads and maybe rotors come spring time. Maybe the Motul 600 is in my future as well.
Motul RBF 600 is a better choice and doesn't stain everything blue.
If you experience a chronically soft pedal (hard use at Sebring, etc) use Castrol SRF.
We only use Castrol SRF in all of our Cup and Turbo race cars. The SRF is very good brake fluid for the track. I should add that we do use the ATE 200 typically in all of our normally aspirated cars in the PCA racing.
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What I'm saying is NOT based on one or two personal experiences.
It is from thousands of customers over almost 5 years, and what they are experiencing -
Spending $60,000 on a vehicle and frankly the concern about ATE vs Motul brake fluid cost???
Debating cost @ $15-$16 per 500ml vs 1 litre is just plain false economy.
Let's give this generality some meat:
The Motul is better enough than the ATE that in many situations that it has proven the difference between a soft or nonexistent pedal for quite a few customers - including Cayman S customers who use their car hard at the track in demanding situations. These folks are absolutely just as adamant to use Motul as others are about saving money to use ATE.
Thus, in general and overall, Motul is better than ATE in every objective respect.
*******************
Fact sheets:
RBF 600 FACTORY LINE
100% synthetic, RBF 600 FACTORY LINE is a polyglycol-based brake fluid exclusively designed for races. Developed to resist high temperatures and wet-weather conditions, RBF 600 has a high dry boiling point of 312°C and a wet boiling point of 216°C. This ensures effective braking under extreme racing or rainy conditions. Couple this with its outstanding anti-vapor lock performance, RBF 600 has become a well-trusted brake fluid in many races.
ATE Blue:
280C Dry boiling point
198C Wet boiling point
__________________ Craig 425-765-1090, www.Rennstore.com --assistance & discussion for your pad selection welcomed PAGID brake pads - Daytona winners in every podium position E-mail for any questions: Rennstore@Comcast.net
just add red color to the Type 200 Gold. Food coloring works OK with it or blue to make more Super Blue.
