In preparation for my first DE, I changed my fluid today. Generally I followed the advice in the Article on the subject but with a few changes. I jacked up and did one wheel at a time. I did not use a bleeder device but did it the old fashioned way by having my wife depress the pedal as required. An 11mm open end wrench worked fine to open and close the bleeder valves. I used ATE Super Blue and found it easy to determine when the new fluid had purged the factory gold fluid. I used a CDOC (also the source of the fluid) bleeder bottle which worked well to minimize the mess. I used about 2/3 of a liter of fluid.

It's a good method, but one you don't want to employ as the car gets older. Why?

The master cylinder plunger goes further into the bore with the pedal bleed, exposing the seals to some rougher, slightly corroded bore material - which ocurrs a few years down the figurative road. This often leads to little tears in the seal lips and eventually some leaks.

Probably not for several more years, but something to keep in mind.

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Craig
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+1. Excellent advice.
Also, better to use either a flare nut wrench or a box wrench. An open end wrench is more likely to round the edges on the relatively soft bleed nipples.

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Dan

Definitely true!

I had a 911SC with Varioram 3.6 which had Turbo brakes - rounded off the nipple with an open end th enight before a track day.........DUH!

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Craig
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do you think it's okay to mix blue and gold brake fluid together? Also, is the slave cylinder being bled also?

ATE "Super" Blue and Type 200 Gold are the same except for the dyed color. If the slave cylinder you are referring to is the clutch slave cylinder, no, it is not being bled during the brake bleed process.

You might want to do the clutch slave cylinder at the same time as the brakes. The clutch system shares the same fluid reservoir as the brakes. Also, the clutch fluid, being actually brake fluid, ages at roughly the same rate as the brake fluid. It's not that hard to do, especially if you have power bleeder.