PAGID brake PADS & OEM noise suppression setup = incompatible

**Craig@Rennstore.com** · #1 (**permalink**) 09-05-2008, 03:12 AM

Up to 30% of customers are finding that the combination of Pagid racing pads (at full and new thickness), + reusing the noise suppression shims = WAY too tight of fit and possibly unwanted and excessive pad / rotor rubbing until worn a few millimeters.

YMMV, but I wanted to pass this on!

**Fort Felker** · #2 (**permalink**) 09-05-2008, 03:42 AM

I got 'em in with the suppressors, but it wasn't easy. We should start a thread that says "Ditch the stupid OEM metal discs on your brake pads the 1st chance you get!"

**Craig@Rennstore.com** · #3 (**permalink**) 09-05-2008, 03:46 AM

Exactly!

BIG fan of aftermarket Pagids (as many here honestly are

) with no shims and then OEMs with all the normal shim stuff -

OR

Pagid Sports with the built-in backing shims

**K-Man S** · #4 (**permalink**) 09-05-2008, 03:50 AM

I had no problem installing the Pagid pads with the shims using my usual channel lock pliers method of separating the old pads before installing the new ones. No dragging on the rotors or any such problems. Could it be that some Pagid pads are thicker than others either by design or by accident? I have yellows up front and blacks in the rear.

**Craig@Rennstore.com** · #5 (**permalink**) 09-05-2008, 04:06 AM

Not a chance - they are incredibly accurate from set to set - very exact.

I think it is a combination of:

Pressing pistons all the way in
*Rotor thickness*
Production variations / alignment of caliper

But, in fairness I believe it is the latter 2 items because the pads CONTINUE to contact
the rotors even after installation -

mooty · #6 (**permalink**) 09-05-2008, 04:27 AM

those who think they have prob. didn't do it right.
you need to push the pistons ALL THE WAY BACK.
ken is good at using channel locks. but most ppl cannot push the piston all the way back with channel lock or screw drivers. i use a big tool posted in another thread designed for that purpose. $$$ but works well.

ken, you may want to show DIY of how to push the piston all the way back. the pads is not too thick. in fact i have another mm of gap.

**K-Man S** · #7 (**permalink**) 09-05-2008, 04:56 AM

Yeah I saw that KS-CS used a regular pair of pliers in his video, bascially when I use the channel locks if it is too tight I take the pads back out and use the channel locks a little more, but I've gotten to the point to where I know what will and what won't be wide enough. I concur with you mooty, I think people just aren't pressing the pistons far enough back...

**Craig@Rennstore.com** · #8 (**permalink**) 09-05-2008, 05:08 AM

Quite possibly true - very much more than likely...

YET....most won't be able to push them in all the way unless they posess the experience and/or the proper tools - so my initial post should help prevent the potential of yummy brown toasted calipers or burnt pads.

**DriveS4spd** · #9 (**permalink**) 09-09-2008, 12:54 AM

I had about 3K miles on the odo/stock pads when I picked up a set of Pagid yellows for my 1st track day in the cs (thanks Craig). The brake pad install was straight forward. The Yellows are thicker than stock but using a set of channel lock pliers i pushed the pads back and the yellows dropped right in. It is definitely do able.

**Craig@Rennstore.com** · #10 (**permalink**) 09-09-2008, 01:06 AM

Good to hear the success stories - I wanted to make people aware of the potential fitment / tightness - I will cutomers refer to this post in the future!

Naybor · #11 (**permalink**) 09-10-2008, 06:52 AM

I find it very easy also. I read one installation suggestion that says hammer them in. Wrong! Push the pistons back until they drop in or can be pressed in by hand. It is nearly a zero force operation.