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A CS can't even beat a regular C6 Vette Z51 on the Nurburgring!
That is a ridiculous statement. A Vette will win a race on an airstrip, too. How many tracks have the long straights of the ring? Of course it will win.
I have not met a single person who has been around a Cayman on a track who doesn't seriously respect the car. Driving it or watching it be driven.
Bring your Passat out sometime, and we'll have some fun.
I am surprised after about 9 months of infrequent visits that the "which car is "mas macho"" is still being debated. Who cares? You can buy a used twin turbo Z and mod it and beat most things out there for less than you'll spend on a new Volvo, so now what?
Back to the original thread, if at all possible, have the dealer install your mods. There are many performance oriented dealers. They are more likely to take up your cause in a dispute. I hope, Ringsport, that your issue is resolved to your satisfaction. I would be interested to know, if in hindsight this mod was worth it. I mean that did you get a sufficient amount of performance gain, or was it so much hype?
My CS is largely stock, but still a joy to drive and full of performance for the street. I have a buddy who is selling his Noble for about what you can get a used CS for. It is in another league, yet he is having difficulty selling it. It is not for lack of performance (0-60 3.7 sec.) or an exotic look, but in the end, this type of car lacks the practicality that make the Cayman the unique car that it is.
Update, porsche has closed the file and denied the claim because an aftermarket part was fitted to the car. They gave me a number to the national dispute hotline but I don't know if it's worth it. On another note it was supposed to be finished yesterday, I hope it'll get done before the weekend. Anyone interested in a blk/blk 08 cayman s with a new rear shock, cv joint and ps2 with 6k on the odometer? ;-)
Cars that a CS is faster on the track, with similar MSRP's, means you are probably referring to a modded CS, which will jack up the price very nicely, leading to a potential warranty issue mentioned in this thread.
The interior of a 3LZ Z06 may surprise you. A CS can't even beat a regular C6 Vette Z51 on the Nurburgring!
So what's stopping you? If you're unhappy with the Cayman, why not get something else?
Quote:
Originally Posted by RingSport
Update, porsche has closed the file and denied the claim because an aftermarket part was fitted to the car. They gave me a number to the national dispute hotline but I don't know if it's worth it. On another note it was supposed to be finished yesterday, I hope it'll get done before the weekend. Anyone interested in a blk/blk 08 cayman s with a new rear shock, cv joint and ps2 with 6k on the odometer? ;-)
Based on my personal experience with Porsche, I would have to conclude that there is something more to this. I have not seen Porsche walk away from customer service. They must be very convinced that the installation of those springs caused the problem.
At this point they have not sent me the narrative nor the pictures to back up their claims. These were promised by Wednesday. The PCNA rep I've been speaking to admitted the dealer could not definitely prove the springs or the installation were the cause but because there was an am part installed as part of the suspension and the suspension failed they are not responsible. What was your personal experience with porsche GB? Maybe it could help my case.
This maybe a stupid question, but doesn't the PD-1 come with lowering springs?
I heard they might be H&R's.
AKA WANI,
I do not believe this is the case. As I understand it, the PD-1 uses the same PASM system and springs as any other car with PASM. The parts catalog seems to support this understanding.
When Porsche marketing indicates that the PD-1 sits 10 mm lower, it appears they are making a comparison to the standard suspension chassis.
Cheers,
PASM - Porsche Active Suspension Management
This active damping system offers continuous adjustment of individual damping forces based on current road conditions and driving style.
The driver can choose from two setup modes, ‘Normal’ and ‘Sport’, using a separate ‘damper’ button on the center console. ‘Normal’ mode is designed for general road driving and circuits with uneven tarmac. ‘Sport’ mode is intended for smoother track surfaces, where the harder settings help eliminate pitch and roll.
In either mode, PASM continuously evaluates the current conditions while automatically selecting the corresponding damper rates from the respective set of mapped values.
A range of sensors are used to monitor the movement of the body under acceleration, braking and cornering maneuvers, as well as on poor road surfaces. The PASM control unit then evaluates this data and modifies the damping force on each individual wheel in accordance with the selected mode. The result is a significant reduction in body movement as well as a better grip on the road.
For example: if ‘Sport’ mode is selected, the suspension is automatically set to a harder damper rating. If the quality of the track surface falls below a certain threshold, the system immediately changes to a softer rating within the ‘Sport’ setup range. When the quality of the tarmac improves once more, PASM automatically returns to the original, harder rating.
Need more information about PASM? Click this link: FAQ for PASM
In absence of a photo, I will assume from the description that the failed part is the "ear" or tab (for lack of a better description) that protrudes from the strut body and locates the strut in the wheel carrier.
This part only locates the shock body in rotation and vertical position in the wheel carrier and is likely not load bearing. The bolt (which also attaches the top of the drop link) passes through the wheel carrier and the hole in locating tab and provides clamping force between the wheel carrier and the strut body when tightened. This clamping force is what holds the strut to the wheel carrier.
Given this, if the bolt was tightened to the proper torque then it is not likely that the strut body could move at all and I expect that movement would be required for the tab to fail. Also, even if the tab failed it is not likely that the strut body would shift in the wheel carrier, causing all the related failures, unless the bolt was not properly torqued.
Granted that my above assertions are made without inspecting the parts, but my bet is on improper re-installation of the struts following installation of the springs. Specifically, it is most likely that the bolt in the wheel carrier was not properly torqued thus allowing movement of the strut body and subsequent failure of the welds between the tab and the strut.
So, if I am right, then your issue is with neither Porsche nor Champion, but with the mechanic that did the installation and likely failed to properly torque the clamp bolt.
Certainly not all, but many, mechanics seem to ignore the factory torque specs in favor of the German standard “Guten Tite” and it US analog “F---ing Tight”. While this may be fine for some parts, certainly critical suspension attachments, and crank bolts ;-), warrant the use of the proper spec.
Cheers,
Agreed and is plausible
Quote:
Originally Posted by RingSport
FWIW, I was just told it wasn't the installation that caused the failure but the springs themselves. The shop foreman has taken over and is preparing a narrative to explain his findings. I still don't know how they can definitely blame the springs, but we'll see.
Did he install the springs?
Quote:
Originally Posted by RingSport
At this point they have not sent me the narrative nor the pictures to back up their claims. These were promised by Wednesday. The PCNA rep I've been speaking to admitted the dealer could not definitely prove the springs or the installation were the cause but because there was an am part installed as part of the suspension and the suspension failed they are not responsible. What was your personal experience with porsche GB? Maybe it could help my case.
I think something is fishy here, how is it that they can say its the spring that caused the part to break? Is it because the spring rate is too stiff for the shock body?
What where you doing when the part failed? Please explain what happened just before the part failed as well as road conditions
No, the tech that is fixing it did not install the springs. They were installed 8 months ago in a different state. Basically I was driving on a smooth road when I heard a small pop and then a screech/grinding noise. I didn't hit a pothole, curb or anything. Pulled into the garage and parked it. Jacked it up and saw the mess. I still do not have a clear description or picture of the failed part(s) as pcna is telling me one thing they've been told by the dealer and the sa is telling me something different.
If you don't have pictures then I would suggest that you immmediately visit the dealership and get pictures of the failed parts and failed areas of the suspension, etc. you may very well need them later.
