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Have you tried seeing if your alternator can keep up? Fire up the HID's and crank up your BOSE system and turn on your windshield wipers, fogs, and interior lights. Any flickering?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4by4
I got some feedback.
The Pulley will come with a holding tool and the new crank bolt. The kits cost is $239.00. For some one who is mechanically inclined, It will take you about 2 hours. The pulley is under driven by 16% and retains the stock belt. On our dyno, we found 7 peek hp and up to 10 mid range hp.
All sounds good. Shall I order? That is the question now...
Good question Kor, but it's very unlikely that the alternator can't keep up. It will just shift the RPM point at which it reaches full voltage. Usually, most cars reach full voltage by 1,300 - 1,500 RPM, depending on load. If you turn on your rear defroster, seat heaters, full fan, wipers, headlights, fog lights, stereo, etc..., the car may not reach full voltage until a higher RPM. Maybe 2,500. If 4by4 is correct, this will simply shift the full voltage RPM upward by 16%. Worst case scenario, if the alternator was under driven too far, the engine was idling and a heavy electrical load was presented, the car could trip a 'Warning Battery/Generator' error in the central warning information center. Theoretically of course. 16% may not be enough to cause this. Time will tell.
My bigger concern would be steering weight and cooling efficiency at idle / low RPM. Can anyone who has done this mod comment?
My bigger concern would be steering weight and cooling efficiency at idle / low RPM. Can anyone who has done this mod comment?
Steering weight is not noticeably different (at least to me) and I have not had any issues with cooling at idle (although I do have the 3rd radiator installed).
Steering weight is not noticeably different (at least to me) and I have not had any issues with cooling at idle (although I do have the 3rd radiator installed).
I have the MantisSport Underdrive Pulley Installed, and have noticed no difference at all whatsoever...........
As for fitting time, in a previous post, I watched my Mechanic fit it and it took 35 minutes - total............ Including Grinding down a socket..........
Seats Forward, Seat Back Forward, Back Carpet out, Access Panel Off, Belt Off, Pulley Off (Put in Gear and foot on brake whilst undoing/doing Bolt - difficult with seats forward so need a friend who can stand outside the car and brake backwards) New Pulley on and Torqued to the correct Spec +90degrees, Belt on - Run engine to see belt running true, Inspection Cover on, Carpet On, Pay Bill and go.............
Is there a post anywhere that describes how to remove the vertical engine access cover behind the seats? Or is it so trivial that no instructions are needed?
Good question Kor, but it's very unlikely that the alternator can't keep up. It will just shift the RPM point at which it reaches full voltage. Usually, most cars reach full voltage by 1,300 - 1,500 RPM, depending on load. If you turn on your rear defroster, seat heaters, full fan, wipers, headlights, fog lights, stereo, etc..., the car may not reach full voltage until a higher RPM. Maybe 2,500. If 4by4 is correct, this will simply shift the full voltage RPM upward by 16%. Worst case scenario, if the alternator was under driven too far, the engine was idling and a heavy electrical load was presented, the car could trip a 'Warning Battery/Generator' error in the central warning information center. Theoretically of course. 16% may not be enough to cause this. Time will tell.
My bigger concern would be steering weight and cooling efficiency at idle / low RPM. Can anyone who has done this mod comment?
Mr Gatorbite,
Ive just done some electrical measurements on the car regarding this, because rightly so, its not something one can ignore. I'll post it in a new thread as soon as I write it up.
Mr Gatorbite,
Ive just done some electrical measurements on the car regarding this, because rightly so, its not something one can ignore. I'll post it in a new thread as soon as I write it up.
Very cool. You are the man.
I know I sometimes come off as a bit skeptical on mods. I am not knocking this mod in any way. Just pointing out the possible theoretical drawbacks. Truthfully, I doubt this mod will result in any significant electical drawbacks, but nothing beats some voltage measurements and comparisons to stock.
I'll keep an eye out for your thread. Maybe I can run the same tests on my stock car so we can compare.
My bigger concern would be steering weight and cooling efficiency at idle / low RPM. Can anyone who has done this mod comment?
No such problems here either. The measurements may be interesting, but the bottom line is that apparently no one who has an underdrive pulley on their CS has ever reported any problems with it.
