Originally Posted by Gator Bite

It's actually a little spooky that you wrote that because just yesterday I was talking with my neighbor and he asked me if I can feel a difference. I told him maybe a little, but the one thing I notice is that if I jump on the highway and nail it like I used to, I am going way faster than I used to.



No, the increase is constant across the board. What you are seeing is part of the Dyno Dynamics Shoot Out procedure. They recommend several runs, all starting at different RPMs. So the operator is starting each run at a different point. This procedure more closely simulates actual street driving conditions and it blends out many variables that would otherwise compromise the results.

There is no sacrifice of power with the Borla at any RPM. Take another look at the graphs and you will see what I mean.



Yes. 17% loss sounds insane now doesn't it? Everyone here would tell you the loss should be closer to 12%. But does anyone really know what loss is all about and can anyone really accurately measure it?

It's a combination of friction and rotational inertia. So a car with 19" wheels will have more loss than one with 17"s. A car with a Tiptronic will have more loss than one with a 6 speed. A car with a 6 speed will have more than a car with a 5 speed. A car with steel brakes will have more than one with PCCBs. A car with low mileage will have more loss than one with higher mileage. Etc....

Farnbacher Loles uses the Dyno Dynamics AWD 450DR QS Chassis Dynamometer. This model is known as one of the most accurate dynamometers for testing high performance cars. In the industry it's been nick named the 'Heart Breaker' because of it's tendency to spit out low RWHP numbers, and I have to say, it definitely broke mine when they told me my car was producing 242hp. Kipp told me that RWHP numbers are all over the place from dyno to dyno, even when comparing the same brands. So the most accurate way to dyno a car is to have each dyno calibrated to deliver the most accurate BHP numbers possible. He told me that they calibrated theirs and that it is 'dialed in'. (Knowing how much time they spent developing the GTR, I have to imagine that the car spent a lot of time on that dyno and that they compared the results between their engine dynamometer and their chassis dynamometer.) The fact that their dyno is estimating my bone stock Cayman S BHP at 294 is further evidence that they have that thing dialed in very close.

So, to more directly answer your question, do I believe that my car has 17% loss between the engine and rear wheels? No, I don't. In fact I don't believe my car (or any manual shift Cayman) has more than 5% loss between the engine and rear wheels. I believe that the Dyno Dynamics AWD 450DS QS that is installed at F/L reads 17% low at the rear wheels when uncalibrated.

Originally Posted by titanic

How is the dyno "dialed in"? I suppose to do that accurately, one has to do engine dyno and chassis dyno on the same car, and the loss ratio would be the difference between the two numbers. But then again, what happens when a different car comes along, with different transmission, different wheels, and different brakes as you suggested? Assuming that the rear wheel dyno number is accurate, the crank dyno number still may not be the correct estimate.