I know there are many existing camber & alignment threads, some of which have tangentially discussed this modification, but I am hoping for a specific and complete answer so I started a new thread. This will also make it easier for those looking for this information in the future.

For those that have installed the GT3 control arms as a means of increasing negative camber, please let me know what you did and what you paid for the parts.

If you are uncomfortable posting this to the thread, then please send me a PM.

I am looking for all the required part numbers. This important, because I need to know whether you installed the 996 or 997 arms and whether the arms were the "street" part or the "cup" part.

The Porsche Owners Club classification system allows only the "street" arms (rubber bushings) for a specific class and does not allow the "cup" arms with the solid bushings, etc.

Thank you in advance for your response.

Cheers,

Bump. I am hoping someone has done this successfully and can point out the critical issues (e.g. headlight angle sensor strut connection).

I had this site bookmarked. Schatz Motorsport Hot New GT-3 Products

Check with BBI AutoSport - 15631 Graham St, Unit D, Huntington Beach, CA 92649 for installation.

__________________
DISCLAIMER: I'm not an engineer, I just play one on the internet.

BBI Under-Drive Pulley | BBI Roll-Bar
BBI Brake cooling package | GT3 Lower control arms
GT3 Front Sway bar | Tarett Rear Sway bar
Tarett Drop links Front & Rear | Tarett Rear Toe arms
Quaife TBD | Nitto NT-01s | PASM Springs

CCC4321,

Thank you for the link. I am not as concerned about locating the parts as about understanding whether the 996 arms fit perfectly (from someone who has done the install) or whether there are other modifications/changes necessary. Remember the wheel housings and bumper cut outs on the radiator install?

So, has anyone done this that can help?

Cheers,

Jeff at AASE installed these on Bill B's car. Did you check with him?

__________________
Life is not a rehearsal

Yep. He says that Micahel Essa at Tech Trix did the installation. I have a message into him, but have not heard back.

Maybe I am confused.

Cheers,

I was asked to post my info on LCA installation on this thread.

For the lower control arms:

K996 341 121 90
K996 341 122 90
K996 341 441 90 (2)
900 076 025 02 (4)
999 025 269 02 (4)

Shims (buy in pairs):

K996 341 543 90
K996 341 543 91
K996 341 543 92

Front sway bar:

K997 343 701 91
996 343 792 16 (2)

Keep in mind:

1. Use your original diagonal control arm that attaches to the lower control arm, but shim it with cheap washers equally on top and bottom to make up for the difference in the thickness of the mounting point on the new LCA.

2. You may need to get more or less LCA shims, depending on what you are after.

3. The sway bar requires adjustable links to fit our cars- I made my stock pair into adjustables, but you may want to find aftermarket units.

4. LCA parts: $640, Sway bar parts: $150

5. You will need an alignment after this! The car will be unpleasant and dangerous to drive without it.

My current alignment is

front: -2.2 camber,1/16" total toe out
rear: -1.5 camber, 1/16" total toe in

This will be modified soon.

The stock diagonal brace works fine and avoids $2-300 in costs.

There is no sensor attached to the lower control arm.

Hope that helps!

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996 GT3 lower control arms at all corners
997 GT3 front sway bar
Tarett rear toe links
Quaife TBD
DMC harness bar/G-force harness

I have GT3cup lower control arms. I have no idea how they are different except like you say the bushings. I hope they are also beefier - I bent a front wheel on the track after i had these installs and they didn't crack or bend.

Part #: 997-341-041-9M

The shop also informed me i need new trailing arms for this the part number is:

Part #: 996-341-043-06

I was charged $600 for the LCA (EACH!) and $228 for the trailing arms.

I don't even kniw what a trailing arm is (is it like a tie-rod at the rear for adjusting toe??). But the shop is a reputable one, albeit i do add a fair amount to their profits i'm sure.

Does anyone have any pictures of the gt3 control arm? Please post them if you do. Thanks, Ricardo

The trailing arm is the diagonal arm I wrote about- do not spend the $228 each for this- shim the original with washers. 997 GT3 LCAs are a ton of money- go for 996 GT3 LCAs which accomplish the same thing. Like I said, I spent $640 TOTAL. Don't bother with this mod if you aren't going beyond -.9 front camber, of course. My front is -2.6 degrees after my last tweak. Here is a pic:



It amounted to the following actions:

1. Disconnect tie rod and sway bar from wheel carrier.

2. Disconnect trailing arm (diagonal arm) from LCA.

3. Disconnect ball joint connection between carrier and LCA. (use prescribed Porsche tool- this came off with a lot of force and a BANG! I borrowed one from my dealership).

4. Disconnect LCA at cross member.

The 996 GT3 LCA is the same length as ours without shims. Put initial shim pack you think is what you want. You get about 1 degree for every .350" you move it out at the botttom or in at the top.

5. Tighten the twin bolts that connect the two halves of the new LCA, with the shims in between. This takes a 13mm socket with a 1/4" drive u-joint to get into the cramped area between the ribs that are cast into the outboard half of the LCA. Porsche tech tells me the torque is 20 ft lbs.

6. Measure trailing arm mount on old and new LCA's with calipers. Go to the hardware store and get six thick washers to make the difference, and use 3 on bottom and 3 on top.

7. Reinstall as you removed the original. Tie rod torque: 56 ft lbs, trailing arm torque: 118 ft lbs, sway bar to link torque: 37ft lbs 1st stage/loosen 90 degrees/48 ft lbs second stage, ball joint toque <I'll post later>, LCA to cross member torque <I'll post later>.

Note: the new LCA has two positions for the trailing arm bolt, so close together the holes overlap forming an "8". I guess this would change caster if you wanted. I chose the hole more rearward, which is along the center line of the arm and corresponds to our LCA mounting point. To get the trailing arm bolt to go through you will have to apply a little force flexing the LCA forward.

8. ALIGN IT! You've got a ton of toe-in now!

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996 GT3 lower control arms at all corners
997 GT3 front sway bar
Tarett rear toe links
Quaife TBD
DMC harness bar/G-force harness

Krokodil and wpmjr,

Great job guys!

Tomorrow I'm getting GT3 LCA installed on my Cayman. Running BFG g-Foprce R1s (GREAT TIRES) which like more negative camber in the front. I have PSS9s so can do more negative on teh rear. Currently the rear camber is set at -2.6 degrees, but only -1.0 up front and the car understeers too much. With GT3 LCAs I can get much more camber up front, but worry about drivability on the street. I think Krokodil you now have - 2.6 on the front, up from the original -2.2. How does it drive with street tires? My thought would be - 2.0 front and -2.6 rear to start with but that may be too much up front for street driving and I may back off some from the rear to make it more neutral. Any comments or recommendations?

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Charles (arcticsilver)

MotorSport VOS, Mantis sump extension, Quaife TBD, GT3 lower control arms, PSS9s, Tarett sway bars, Softronic race plenum, Capristo exhaust, Hayden TransSaver Plus OC-1676 on power steering return line.