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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2006, 03:09 AM
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Desnork Review



First, didn't mean to start a new thread, but I could not reply in the main desnork thread, the message window would not display, maybe because of the length of the thread affecting my laptop, dunno... anyways.


I completed the desnork that K-man turned me on to in his article. It is kind of cumbersome even after looking at the tutorials. Once you re-read them a couple times and get in there with a flash light you get a betteridea. I ended up breaking a pin before re-examinging my methods, after that, no problem. One tip I would throw out is to fold a paper towel over the screw driver, so once it 'in there' the towel will protect the paint from the metal contact of the screw driver, and the screw driver will rip through the end to do your prying. Maybe not needed but made me feel a little safer working a screw driver in between two pieces of black paint.


Thoughts on the actual performace... I haven't driven it yet as the stores are closed to get mesh, not that I think the mesh is that important, but what the hell. It's late so I'll try tomorrow. The sound is noticable just giving it a couple revs to 1.5k - 2k rpm in the garage. It actually sounds pretty neat, kind of like whisking turbo noise (not actual spooling noise).


Now the the conjecture! OMG, I have seen people saying 'how the heck does it breath?!?!' when they see the plate over it. I will tell you guys that haven't had the opportunity to examing your plates. It breathes through abouta 3.5' x .3' slit that is on the trailing side of the plate. I do not know how a 4 cylinder car could breathe with that, let alone anything bigger. Obviously it works as it is, but it seems severly restricted. I am wondering if there is any air being pull from the other side or somewhere else? Now my experience withworking onperformance engines is limited to carburated engines, particularly 2 cycle race quads. In bikes using OEM airboxes(with bigger holes than that plate) you would be surprised in the gains you can acheive by simply removing the air box all together or going with a better design, and adding a high flow air filter, particularly on the top end. I cannot see how this would not apply to the Cayman or any other combustion engine. Sure, apples and oranges, but the laws of physics remain the same, and my opinion is that the plate is hindering some performance in higher RPM range.


As for the concerns about extra dust, water, etc. I think someone pointed out the design would make water a nonfactor. I don't drive in the rain anyways, so for me not on my worry list. Dust - the only way its going to get dirtierfaster is the fact you're pulling in more CFM than before, which is a good thing. Dust is suspended in the, and I think the vacuum created on that small slit is adequate the suck aboutanything into that comes near it.


Conclusion, it makes perfect sense in theory to do it.Put simply it cannot hurt, andafter seeing the side of the tinyslit it pulls air from,I'd bet big $ it can provide measurable gains in the up RPM range on all vehicles (and not isolated to freakdyno as some have suggested could be possible). I think the only draw back is actually doing it. Until you have unatched the first pin, it can be kind of frustrating because you want it off but don't want to ruin anything. Anyone still pondering, do it... get a flashlight, a medium lenth but thin tip/shaft flat head, read the two articles and the posts (lots of bonus pics, diagrams, info) once, then go out to your car and flex out the grate so you see it first hand, then reread them, then you should have no fear and it really should take 5 - 10 minutes to remove.


I'll try to get seat of the pants info tomorrow and I'm going to try to get on a dyno. If anyone has a connection in the phoenix metro, I'll run it buy before putting on the mesh and grate, and they can do an exact comparison by running it with it off and on within a minute of each other.





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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-08-2006, 04:35 PM
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Quote:


First, didn't mean to start a new thread, but I could not reply in the main desnork thread, the message window would not display, maybe because of the length of the thread affecting my laptop, dunno... anyways.


I completed the desnork that K-man turned me on to in his article. It is kind of cumbersome even after looking at the tutorials. Once you re-read them a couple times and get in there with a flash light you get a betteridea. I ended up breaking a pin before re-examinging my methods, after that, no problem. One tip I would throw out is to fold a paper towel over the screw driver, so once it 'in there' the towel will protect the paint from the metal contact of the screw driver, and the screw driver will rip through the end to do your prying. Maybe not needed but made me feel a little safer working a screw driver in between two pieces of black paint.


Thoughts on the actual performace... I haven't driven it yet as the stores are closed to get mesh, not that I think the mesh is that important, but what the hell. It's late so I'll try tomorrow. The sound is noticable just giving it a couple revs to 1.5k - 2k rpm in the garage. It actually sounds pretty neat, kind of like whisking turbo noise (not actual spooling noise).


Now the the conjecture! OMG, I have seen people saying 'how the heck does it breath?!?!' when they see the plate over it. I will tell you guys that haven't had the opportunity to examing your plates. It breathes through abouta 3.5' x .3' slit that is on the trailing side of the plate. I do not know how a 4 cylinder car could breathe with that, let alone anything bigger. Obviously it works as it is, but it seems severly restricted. I am wondering if there is any air being pull from the other side or somewhere else? Now my experience withworking onperformance engines is limited to carburated engines, particularly 2 cycle race quads. In bikes using OEM airboxes(with bigger holes than that plate) you would be surprised in the gains you can acheive by simply removing the air box all together or going with a better design, and adding a high flow air filter, particularly on the top end. I cannot see how this would not apply to the Cayman or any other combustion engine. Sure, apples and oranges, but the laws of physics remain the same, and my opinion is that the plate is hindering some performance in higher RPM range.


As for the concerns about extra dust, water, etc. I think someone pointed out the design would make water a nonfactor. I don't drive in the rain anyways, so for me not on my worry list. Dust - the only way its going to get dirtierfaster is the fact you're pulling in more CFM than before, which is a good thing. Dust is suspended in the, and I think the vacuum created on that small slit is adequate the suck aboutanything into that comes near it.


Conclusion, it makes perfect sense in theory to do it.Put simply it cannot hurt, andafter seeing the side of the tinyslit it pulls air from,I'd bet big $ it can provide measurable gains in the up RPM range on all vehicles (and not isolated to freakdyno as some have suggested could be possible). I think the only draw back is actually doing it. Until you have unatched the first pin, it can be kind of frustrating because you want it off but don't want to ruin anything. Anyone still pondering, do it... get a flashlight, a medium lenth but thin tip/shaft flat head, read the two articles and the posts (lots of bonus pics, diagrams, info) once, then go out to your car and flex out the grate so you see it first hand, then reread them, then you should have no fear and it really should take 5 - 10 minutes to remove.


I'll try to get seat of the pants info tomorrow and I'm going to try to get on a dyno. If anyone has a connection in the phoenix metro, I'll run it buy before putting on the mesh and grate, and they can do an exact comparison by running it with it off and on within a minute of each other.


Hi Azcay:


I have not gotten around to d-snorking yet, but I have managed to pull the plastic away from the body and look in there with a flash light. It is one of those things that you kind of wish some one was there with you that has already done the job. I am sure we would all like to ge your impression of the test drive without the baffling plate. Hope to hear about it soon


Bob


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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 08-08-2006, 04:36 PM
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Quote:


First, didn't mean to start a new thread, but I could not reply in the main desnork thread, the message window would not display, maybe because of the length of the thread affecting my laptop, dunno... anyways.


I completed the desnork that K-man turned me on to in his article. It is kind of cumbersome even after looking at the tutorials. Once you re-read them a couple times and get in there with a flash light you get a betteridea. I ended up breaking a pin before re-examinging my methods, after that, no problem. One tip I would throw out is to fold a paper towel over the screw driver, so once it 'in there' the towel will protect the paint from the metal contact of the screw driver, and the screw driver will rip through the end to do your prying. Maybe not needed but made me feel a little safer working a screw driver in between two pieces of black paint.


Thoughts on the actual performace... I haven't driven it yet as the stores are closed to get mesh, not that I think the mesh is that important, but what the hell. It's late so I'll try tomorrow. The sound is noticable just giving it a couple revs to 1.5k - 2k rpm in the garage. It actually sounds pretty neat, kind of like whisking turbo noise (not actual spooling noise).


Now the the conjecture! OMG, I have seen people saying 'how the heck does it breath?!?!' when they see the plate over it. I will tell you guys that haven't had the opportunity to examing your plates. It breathes through abouta 3.5' x .3' slit that is on the trailing side of the plate. I do not know how a 4 cylinder car could breathe with that, let alone anything bigger. Obviously it works as it is, but it seems severly restricted. I am wondering if there is any air being pull from the other side or somewhere else? Now my experience withworking onperformance engines is limited to carburated engines, particularly 2 cycle race quads. In bikes using OEM airboxes(with bigger holes than that plate) you would be surprised in the gains you can acheive by simply removing the air box all together or going with a better design, and adding a high flow air filter, particularly on the top end. I cannot see how this would not apply to the Cayman or any other combustion engine. Sure, apples and oranges, but the laws of physics remain the same, and my opinion is that the plate is hindering some performance in higher RPM range.


As for the concerns about extra dust, water, etc. I think someone pointed out the design would make water a nonfactor. I don't drive in the rain anyways, so for me not on my worry list. Dust - the only way its going to get dirtierfaster is the fact you're pulling in more CFM than before, which is a good thing. Dust is suspended in the, and I think the vacuum created on that small slit is adequate the suck aboutanything into that comes near it.


Conclusion, it makes perfect sense in theory to do it.Put simply it cannot hurt, andafter seeing the side of the tinyslit it pulls air from,I'd bet big $ it can provide measurable gains in the up RPM range on all vehicles (and not isolated to freakdyno as some have suggested could be possible). I think the only draw back is actually doing it. Until you have unatched the first pin, it can be kind of frustrating because you want it off but don't want to ruin anything. Anyone still pondering, do it... get a flashlight, a medium lenth but thin tip/shaft flat head, read the two articles and the posts (lots of bonus pics, diagrams, info) once, then go out to your car and flex out the grate so you see it first hand, then reread them, then you should have no fear and it really should take 5 - 10 minutes to remove.


I'll try to get seat of the pants info tomorrow and I'm going to try to get on a dyno. If anyone has a connection in the phoenix metro, I'll run it buy before putting on the mesh and grate, and they can do an exact comparison by running it with it off and on within a minute of each other.


Hi Azcay:


I have not gotten around to d-snorking yet, but I have managed to pull the plastic away from the body and look in there with a flash light. It is one of those things that you kind of wish some one was there with you that has already done the job. I am sure we would all like to ge your impression of the test drive without the baffling plate. Hope to hear about it soon


Bob


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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 08-08-2006, 05:23 PM
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Any suggestions on how to keep it rain-safe after removing the plate?



Thanks for the write-up [img]/fckeditor/editor/images/smiley/MWPX/thumbs_up.gif[/img]
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Old 08-08-2006, 05:34 PM
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Please see the other main topic thread on this guys, I know you didn't mean to start a new thread, but let's try to keep the discussion focused if at all possible. Water penetration or lack thereof actually has been discussed in detail in the main topic on this subject. Thanks!
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Old 08-09-2006, 05:49 AM
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i dont understand how you can reach the clip (the part on the gills) not the pin (on the car) wiht screw driver. what i did was use screw driver to pry off one of the pins, upper right one, if you are looking straight at the gill. once that comes out, the rest just wiggles out. the pin is $0.48.


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http://www.premiermobilegroup.com/ (one of the best clear film specialists)
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